Nov. 04, 2026
| Question | Short Answer |
| What does a defoamer do? | Breaks the air bubbles trapped in fresh mortar. |
| Which mortar needs it most? | Self-leveling, grout, waterproofing — anything that must be dense. |
| What happens without it? | Pinholes on the surface, lower strength, weak spots. |
| Powder or liquid? | Powder for dry-mix. Liquid for wet mix or spray. |
| How much do I need? | Very little — far less than HPMC or RDP. |
When you mix mortar, you trap air. Not big bubbles you can see — thousands of tiny ones. They hide inside the mix.
Most of the time, nobody thinks about them. But those tiny bubbles are a silent problem. They are why:
A self-leveling floor dries with a thousand pinholes on the surface
A grout joint ends up porous and turns black
A waterproof layer leaks through spots you cannot see
The bubbles do not disappear on their own. They stay in the hardened mortar as tiny voids. That is a defoamer's job — to pop them while the mortar is still fresh.
A bubble is an empty hole. An empty hole does three bad things:
1.It weakens the mortar. Every bubble is a place where there is no cement, no aggregate — nothing to carry load. More bubbles, less strength.
2.It makes pinholes. When bubbles rise to the surface and pop too late, they leave pinholes. A self-leveling floor full of pinholes looks bad and is weak at the surface.
3.It lets water in. A porous mortar soaks up water. For waterproof mortar and grout, that defeats the whole purpose.
So a defoamer is not a luxury. For some products, it is the difference between a pass and a fail.
Not every mortar needs one. Some need it badly.
| Mortar | Needs defoamer? | Why |
| Self-leveling compound | Yes, always | Pinholes and surface defects are a fail |
| Tile grout | Yes | Pores turn black, let water in |
| Waterproof mortar | Yes | Any void is a leak path |
| Putty / skim coat | Yes | Smooth, pinhole-free finish |
| Decorative mortar | Yes | Surface is the product |
| Tile adhesive | Less critical | Some air is okay, even helps workability |
The rule is simple: the more the surface matters, or the more water-tight the product must be, the more you need a defoamer.
Like every additive, the form follows how you mix.
| Form | Use it when |
| Powder | Dry-mix mortar — blended into the bag at the factory |
| Liquid | Wet mix, or surface spray |
CHARING defoamers are powder, made for dry-mix. They blend in with the other powders and stay stable in the bag.
All are non-ionic, white, free-flowing powders, active content 65% minimum. The difference is what each one is tuned for.
| Product | Position | Key point |
| D802 | Standard | Neutral pH 7.0, the most common all-round choice |
| D804 | Fast defoaming + oil removal | Quicker bubble break, cuts the greasy surface feel |
| D803T | D804, cost-reduced | Same oil-removal type, at a lower cost |
| D808H | High temperature | Stands up to 120°C — hot countries, oil-well cementing |
How to pick:
Start with D802. It is the safe standard for most self-leveling, grout, putty, and waterproof mortar.
Need it faster, or a cleaner (less greasy) surface? Try D804. If cost matters more, D803T is the same oil-removal type at a lower price.
Hot climate, or oil-well cementing? That is D808H — it keeps working where a normal defoamer gives up.
A defoamer works at a very low dose. It is not like HPMC or RDP, where you add kilograms.
The exact amount depends on your formula, but the idea is always the same: use just enough to kill the bubbles, no more. Over-dosing wastes money and can even hurt the surface finish.
Always test in your own mix. A defoamer that is perfect at one dose can fail at another — your cement, your sand, and your mixing speed all matter.
1. Skipping the defoamer on a self-leveling floor. You will see the pinholes after it dries. Then it is too late.
2. Over-dosing to be safe. More defoamer does not mean fewer bubbles. It just costs more and can cause surface defects.
3. Using the wrong form. A liquid defoamer does not blend into a dry bag. Dry-mix needs the powder.
4. Ignoring temperature. A normal defoamer weakens in very hot mortar or high-temperature curing. If you work in a hot climate, that is D808H's job.
5. Testing on the wrong mortar. A defoamer that works in grout may behave differently in self-leveling. Test each product on its own formula.
Do I always need a defoamer?
No. Tile adhesive and basic render can often do without it. But self-leveling, grout, waterproofing, and anything with a visible surface almost always need one.
What is the difference between D802 and D804?
D802 is the standard all-rounder (pH 7.0). D804 defoams faster and also reduces the greasy surface feel. D803T is the cost-reduced version of D804 — same oil-removal type, lower price.
When do I need D808H?
In hot countries or any high-temperature application, like oil-well cementing. It stands up to 120°C.
How much defoamer per ton?
Very little — a fraction of what you use for HPMC or RDP. The exact dose depends on your formula, so test it.
Can a defoamer fix a mix that is already full of bubbles?
Only if it is added and mixed while the mortar is fresh. Once it hardens, the voids stay.
E-mail: sdcharing@sdcharing.com
Phone: +86 131 7667 0070
WhatsApp: +8615066133527
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